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More on Fairlynch and the Delderfields

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Many people admired the excellent exhibition to mark R.F. Delderfield’s centenary last year, staged by Fairlynch volunteer Margaret Brett with much valuable material contributed by the author's biographer Marion Lindsey-Noble. They may like to know that both Delderfield brothers had dealings with Fairlynchduring their lifetime as recently discovered in the Museum's archives.  


























Pictured above is one of the many books by Eric Delderfield (1909-95). Brought up in Exmouth like his brother Ronald, he published a range of works about the West Country with a focus on local history.
























Following an approach by the Friends of Fairlynch Secretary Marjorie Evison in April 1971  he gave a talk six months later to the Friends of Fairlynch in the Church Institute next to The Green in Budleigh Salterton. Entitled ‘Historic Houses of the West’ it was based on his book West Country Historic Houses and their Families, the second volume of which had been published in the previous year. 

 


















In his response to the Friends of Fairlynch Secretary Marjorie Evison’s invitation to speak he was somewhat apologetic about the cost involved.  “I am afraid that the demands on my time for lecturing all over the West Country is such that I have been forced to make a charge for everyone now - but would be prepared to do this at a reduced fee of £3.15p including expenses if this would suit.” 

 
























Nine years passed and the list of Eric Delderfield’s publications continued to grow, as did apparently his approval of what was happening at Fairlynch. He responded warmly to Marjorie Evison’s suggestion that he might officially open the Friends’ Summer Coffee Morning and Annual Garden Sale in the Temple Methodist Hall and Garden on 26 July 1980. “I shall be pleased to do this,” he wrote, “as apart from anything else, I have a tremendous admiration for the dedication which so many of your Committee and helpers devote to the excellent museum which is such a credit to Budleigh Salterton.”

The occasion was a great success. Various stalls sold goods, including handicrafts made for the sale and the Budleigh Salterton Handbell Ringers entertained the crowds. It was felt that the official opening by the famous author, accompanied by his wife, had given a good start to the event, which raised a gross total of £158.88.

 

 






















There’s every reason to think that Ronald Delderfield would have been a useful supporter of Fairlynch. He was always ready to support local causes and in later life was a prominent defender of  Woodbury Common when it was threatened by development. "As locals told me last year during the centenary celebrations, Ron was so popular not only because he wrote lovely novels but also because he was a passionate defender of truth and rights, forever helping out with campaigns and missions by writing scathing and passionate articles," says Marion Lindsey-Noble.  
 





















 
 
 
At one stage he’d lived in Budleigh Salterton and was a good friend of Dr Tom Evans, the town’s GP. Some three months after her first letter to Eric Delderfield, in April 1971, Marjorie Evison learnt that his even more successful brother, author of best-selling novels like A Horseman Riding By would be willing to give a talk to the Friends of Fairlynch.  Clearly excited at the prospect of a visiting celebrity at the Museum she wrote to Ronald Delderfield at Dove Cottage, his Sidmouth home. “I hope you will come to see the present display at the Museum - if you should come in I would very much like to explain our efforts to you.  If I am not there, the steward on duty could telephone me, and I could be down within a few minutes - always provided I am in, of course!”


 

 


















The author was indeed happy to give a talk the following year - and there was no mention of a fee! “March 2nd, afternoon, would suit me,” he wrote back.  “I will put it in the diary but would appreciate a reminder a day or so before, as I am very absent-minded.”  As for the subject of the talk he suggested: “Suppose I read one or two local comic essays from my autobiographies & explain the use of backgrounds in between?” He was in fact at that time working on an autobiography, For My Own Amusement, published in 1972. In that book he discusses the inspiration for the storylines of his novels and tells in anecdotes the origin of several of his characters. Delderfield believed that authors draw inspiration from the scenes of their youth, and  called his sources “character farms”, the main ones being his childhood in Addiscombe, Surrey, his schooldays, and his time at the Exmouth Chronicle.

Sadly Ronald Delderfield’s talk was not to be.

On 26 February of that year he wrote to Marjorie Evison: “I feel I must apologise in writing for unavoidably cancelling our engagement, but I am sorry to say I have not been at all well lately and I have, as I explained to you on the telephone, an appointment with a specialist in town on March 2nd. I do hope you will be able to find a replacement at such short notice, and can only offer my apologies again.”

 























Almost four months later, on 24 June at Dove Cottage, he died from lung cancer at the tragically early age of 60.  Gifted with his particular sense of humour which so often portrays the farcical nature of human affairs, especially seen in autobiographies like his Nobody Shouted Author, Delderfield would no doubt have appreciated the irony of what he had written in his first letter to Marjorie Evison. “I am always a little hesitant about booking this far ahead in case I am whisked away at the last minute but there are no plans for promotion tours in March.”   

   

 

 

 



 
 

 

Not all museums are from the same mould

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The Victoria and AlbertMuseum, London
Image credit: Andreas Praefcke

Visiting one of our national institutions like the BritishMuseumor the V&A brings home to you the big difference between them and little outfits like Fairlynch. It’s money of course. Volunteer-run museums such as Budleigh Salterton’s operate on a relative shoestring, frequently running at a loss because of the cost of maintenance both of the building and of the environmental conditions needed to conserve artefacts.

 

 
 


















Amanita muscaria (fly agaric)   
Image credit: Michael Maggs 

Our damp English autumn is a time for fungi foragers, for mushrooms, for spectacular toadstools like this, and of course for mould. Yesterday I remembered too late that I’d left my smart new gardening gloves in the potting shed at the end of the summer. When I went to rescue  them they’d changed colour from yellow to soft powdery grey. It was a simple matter to brush off the mildew, taking care not to inhale the dust, for more than 100,000 types of mould exist and many of them are extremely harmful to humans.


Mould lives off any organic matter, including wood, leather, paper and textiles. It grows on organic materials when the relative humidity remains above 65% for any length of time. In a museum it’s particularly bad news because it can stain and disfigure artefacts and even penetrate the structure of an object.  The acceptable level of relative humidity varies between objects depending on the type of material. Ideally artefacts of the same group should be grouped together in the relative humidity band that best suits them, but this is not always possible.

 





















Fairlynch is lucky enough to have its own expert in such matters in the person of volunteer Trevor Waddington OBE who joined the Museum as a Trustee earlier this year. A retired Royal Navy engineer officer, he ran an antique clocks conservation-restoration business in Wiltshire before moving to Budleigh Salterton in 2012. Conservation in museums is a complex issue, he says. “A satisfactory temperature for humans is not the same for exhibits.”






















The newly installed dehumidifier in Fairlynch Museum's Exhibition Room is a Mitsubishi MJ E14EG E1. This particular model was chosen on the recommendation of  Helena Jaeschke, Conservation Development Officer at Exeter's Royal Albert Memorial Museum
 


















Above: The logo of the Skinners' Company Lady Neville Charity

Using dehumidifiers to prevent high relative humidity is one of the most important ways of preserving artefacts for future generations and Fairlynch now has three of these useful gadgets located in different parts of the Museum thanks to a grant of £950 from the Lady Neville Charity administered by the Skinners’ Company.

 
Based in the City of London, the Company is one of the ‘Great Twelve’ Livery Companies with a history going back some 700 years. It developed from the medieval trade guild of the furriers: members of the guild dressed and traded furs that were used for trimming and lining the garments of richer members of society. The Company has not been associated with the craft for many years and today administers its schools, almshouses, and charities that contribute mainly to educating the young and helping older people in need.  

The Skinners’ Company Lady Neville Charity was formally set up in 1978 following a bequest from Ralph Neville JP. Its aim is to provide grants that will make a clear and significant contribution to grassroots charitable organisations working in designated priority areas. These include Local Heritage projects which help local groups to conserve and restore their landmarks, landscape, traditions and culture.

So thanks to technology, to alert volunteers and to generous support from institutions like the Skinners’ Company Fairlynch Museum is making sure that its treasures will remain in good condition and be enjoyed by visitors for generations to come.

For more information about the Skinners' Company click on http://www.skinnershall.co.uk/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

People from the Past 9: Frances Van Meter (1909-1994)

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A corner of the Carter Library at Fairlynch Museum

At the tenth Annual General Meeting of the Friends of Fairlynch on 22 March 1979, Priscilla Hull, as Chairman of the Management Committee of the Museum, reported that the Library, under the care of Mrs Van Meter, was “now available on certain days each week, or by special appointment.”

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
A young Frances Van Meter. She is described as the second wife of a Eugene Van Meter at
http://www.vanmetre.com/images/People/Eugene_VM/eugene_van_meter_family.htm

 
Frances Van Meter (1909-94) born in Bardwell, CarlisleCounty, in Kentucky USA, was one of the founding members of what became the ManchesterCenter in Lexington’s Irishtown, Kentucky.  How, after an eventful life of such high achievement, she came to settle in the tranquil surroundings of Budleigh Salterton as Librarian of the local museum is one of the many curiosities and unanswered questions that I’ve met at Fairlynch.  If any of my US readers has the answer I’d love to hear from you.

The ManchesterCenter, which finally closed in 2010, was founded as the Manchester Street Library in 1940 by 20 women, including Mrs Van Meter, to give Irishtown residents access to books when not in school. She was the Library’s Executive Director from 1943 to 1966. 

The Manchester Street Library owed its origins to an initiative taken in 1939 by two members of Lexington’s Kentucky Junior League, an organisation of women committed to improving the community through the effective action and leadership of trained volunteers. Their efforts began with providing library facilities at the AbrahamLincolnSchool, on West High Street in Lexington’s Irishtown.



















Shack-like houses in the area known as Davis Bottom in Lexington's Irishtown
Image credit: The Goodman Paxton Photographic Collection, Special Collections, University of Kentucky

 
In the pre-WW2 years Irishtown was well known as a deprived area notable as the home of poor white residents, most of whom were working-class Irish who had fled the potato famine in their homeland.   As recently as 1980 it was described as "the worst pocket of poverty in Lexington."

LincolnSchool, in about 1912.
Image credit: Louis Edward Nollau F Series Photographic Print Collection,
Special Collections, University of Kentucky

The school, founded in 1912 and funded by a mixture of private donations and public funds, was a progressive model for elementary education with facilities and programmes far ahead of the times, but it also exemplified the era of school segregation in Lexington. Black students were not allowed to attend Lincolnthroughout its 55 years of service as a public school.

By spring 1940 the women volunteers had become deeply involved in improving library facilities at the school, repairing old or worn-out books, cataloguing and accessioning new ones and of course encouraging children to read. It was clear that such a facility was badly needed at times when the school library was closed. By 1 June of that year, the volunteers, now 15 in number, were running what became known as the Manchester Street Library in an old store-room near the LincolnSchool. Five hundred books were on the shelves and the sum of $105 was in the bank, raised by the volunteers and their friends.

The volunteers themselves took it in turns to do a stint in the library, helping approximately 25 children to select books, and, as librarian Amelia King Buckley put it, “holding story hour, keeping peace and always remembering that the library must not acquire a schoolroom atmosphere.”  Their aim was to build up a feeling among the children that it could be fun to come to the library and borrow a book, and that all the books belonged to all of them and they must care for them accordingly.
























The actress Colleen Moore in 1921

When the Lincoln school re-opened after the summer break it was clear that the children wanted their Manchester Street Library to be kept open during the winter. Much needed funds for doing this came from the decision by the Lions Club to allow income from showings of the dollhouse belonging to the famous actress Colleen Moore to benefit the Library.

The Library itself was evolving, organising visits to a printing shop, a dairy and a farm and encouraging the children to produce plays.  Books for all ages were added to its stock. It gained a new dimension when it developed a sewing club where a group of mothers could learn to make new garments out of leftover clothes from jumble sales.  The club disbanded each year in late winter and early spring when the women took jobs in local tobacco factories. 

Further outside help and recognition of the Manchester Street Library’s worth came when the Kentucky branch of the National Society Daughters of Colonial Wars decided to make a regular contribution to help with the purchase of attractive patriotic books, the first ones that had been bought new.

In 1938, work had been started on a low-cost public housing complex known as Charlotte Court, built specifically for African Americans living in Lexington. In January 1942 the Library Committee provided 250 books for a lending branch in the complex’s recreation centre following a request by the complex planners.  After the success of the Charlotte Court branch, the Manchester Street Library received a request for a lending library in Aspendale, a segregated housing project on the east side of Lexington. Like Charlotte Court, the Aspendale branch library was managed by a separate library committee which reported to the Manchester Street Library Committee.

The Library, by now with a collection of approximately 3,000 books also benefited from community funds generated by a government initiative during World War Two. It was able to move from the old storeroom to a nearby four-room house at 1026 Manchester Street and to employ a full-time librarian. The Girl Reserve, a branch of the Young Women’s Christian Association held meetings in the new building, and music lessons were now offered.  Autumn 1943 saw the formation of a men’s club and a women’s club thanks to the interest of the YWCA and the YMCA in the project. A toy lending library was started with the help of the Council of Jewish Women. Reading material was also being distributed by boy and girl volunteers to Lexington’s juvenile detention centre which had never had a library.

But by 1951 the importance of the Manchester Street Library as a book centre had diminished thanks to the mobile library set up by Lexington Public Library. The following year the name was changed to the ManchesterCenter.

The librarian had already begun offering, as a contemporary magazine put it, “personal and mental hygiene guidance... offering assistance with government and job application forms... providing scholarships and urging school attendance, teaching piano lessons,  lending ear to boy-girl problems, advising on clothes buying, and numerous other activities for which there was no other neighborhood clearing-house, and with which the neighborhood family units were unable to cope.”  The Center continued to offer field trips for children in the Lexingtonarea, facilitated children’s theatre and musical activities, and encouraged youth to participate in other leadership development programmes including Girl Scouts, Boy Scouts, the YMCA and the YWCA

The late 1950s saw a dramatic increase in the range of services that the Center offered, from meeting room space to counselling for adults. Together with its Recreation Director Julian Walker (1928-2011) Frances Van Meter launched a fund-raising campaign in 1960 which resulted in the demolition of the 144-year-old building on Manchester Streetand its replacement by new purpose-built premises.  Within a year the Center was being used by 400 people weekly.

On retiring as Executive Director of the Centre in 1966 Frances Van Meter worked for four years at the Lexington Public Library. She then fulfilled what had seemingly been a childhood dream by moving to England in 1970 and settling in Budleigh Salterton, Devon. Or rather, at Clover Cottage in Ting Tong, a triangular piece of land on a hill overlooking the town and a few miles further west of it. 



















The view from Ting Tong on a misty autumnal day, looking east towards Peak Hill and Sidmouth: the sea is somewhere out there

For Frances Van Meter the distinction was important: in 1978 she became involved in a six-month battle with the Television Records Office over her address, officials having decreed that Clover Cottage was on Dalditch Lane. Frances Van Meter “saw red” according to a report in the Sidmouth Herald. She had researched the origin of the strange-sounding name and discovered that it had ancient origins. “‘Ting Tong’”, she wrote, “is probably a corruption of the Anglo-Saxon word ‘Thyngton’, meaning ‘meeting place.’  Its location would have provided an ideal look-out point for ancient tribesmen holding ‘council meetings’ since its hilltop even now gives an excellent view of the Exe estuary, the Channel as far as Portland Bill in one direction and Berry Head in the other on a clear day, as well as a panorama of inland countryside. The Isle of Man still has its Tynwald (parliament), Denmarkits Folketing (people’s meeting) and Iceland its Allthing (everybody’s meeting). Norwayhas not only ‘Storting’ (big meeting) consisting of two parliamentary houses, but both those houses end in -ting.” 

The newspapers had a field day. Frances Van Meter had approached her friend East Devon Councillor Anne de Winton, a Budleigh Salterton resident and published author. Council officials joined the fight to try and arrive at a solution,  though the Sidmouth Herald commented that this may have added to the confusion.
There was naturally insufficient space in the newspapers for all that erudition displayed by the lady from Kentucky, but editors seized on her transatlantic origins.  ‘A right ding dong over Ting Tong’ rang out the headline in the Western Times and Gazette of 20 January 1979, concluding its report: “I will defend this little bit of British heritage,” drawled Mrs Van Meter, who comes from the United States of America.”   

It was at this time that Frances Van Meter became involved with Fairlynch, a community project which must have seemed tiny by comparison with her achievements in her home state. Her readiness to do battle with officialdom as well as her scholarship would no doubt have appealed to the Museum’s founders. Fairlynch co-founder Joy Gawne remembers her as “statuesque” and an excellent Librarian. “Van Meter... like the gas meter, she would say to introduce herself. She would be typing away in the Library and visitors at the Museum would apologise thinking that they had gone into an office by mistake, but she would welcome them and insist on showing them what was on the shelves.” 
 
The results of her research into Ting Tong were published in a folder dated 14 May 1986. A further project concerned the history of KnowleVillage which she was unable to complete, but an album was published by the Museum using her notes and photographs.

At around this time she moved from Ting Tong to a flat at Pinewood in Westbourne Terrace, off Budleigh Salterton’s West Hill. She died in the RoyalDevon & ExeterHospital on 18 August 1994, aged 85.

It was Frances Van Meten who as Fairlynch’s first librarian laid the foundations of what is now the Carter Library. Our Museum has not had its own librarian for some years now.  Maybe a Friend of Fairlynch will be inspired to fill the vacancy if they read this story of the lady from Lexingtonwho did so much for the community. He or she might feel amused by the thought of following in the footsteps of such a remarkable woman.   

In 2010 the Manchester Center Board of Directors made the difficult decision to close the Center in Lexington.  For several years it had been struggling and in the face of trying economic times it became increasingly clear that it could not continue to operate given its financial situation.  Thankfully its history lives on. 

With much acknowledgement to Jonathan Jeffrey’s ‘Looking Back: A History of the ManchesterStreetCenter.’ Kentucky Libraries, 72 (2), 2008.  http://digitalcommons.wku.edu/dlsc_fac_pub/33

 





Fairlynch Friends lead the way

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Two Friends of Fairlynch will shortly be leading walks organised by the Otter Valley Association but open to all.

On Saturday 30 November David Daniel will be the walk leader on what is described as a short and sociable three-mile walk on the commons to relieve those growing pre-Christmas pressures. The start is at 10.00 am at Wheathill Plantation car park (map ref SY041847).  
 




 
 
 
A trek along Hawkerland valley  Image credit Rob Purvis

On Saturday 7 December Brian Turnbull will lead a five-mile moderate walk starting at 10.00 am at ColatonRaleighChurch(map ref SY082872), going down green lanes and over the commons, visiting Dotton, Hawkerland and Knapps land.  There is an optional lunch at the Otter Inn. For more detailscontact Brian on 01395 567339.

 

 
 
 
 
The Otter Inn, Colaton Raleigh
To help you decide, click on http://www.otterinn.co.uk/
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Dalditch Common, with a sea view  
 
Then on Thursday 26 December David Daniel will lead a four-mile gentle Boxing Day walk across the commons, starting from East Budleigh Car Park (map ref SY066849) at 10.30 am, with an optional lunch at the Sir Walter Raleigh, seen below. Lunch bookings by phone to David on 01395 445960 should be made by 6 December.














East Budleigh's Sir Walter Raleigh inn. Could Queen Elizabeth I's favourite have tasted the odd pint here?   http://www.sirwalterraleighinn.co.uk

 

  

 

Lots to mull over in Budleigh Salterton

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Mulled wine in the Museum, mulled cider in a marquee just opposite in Mackerel Square, with live music to listen to and chorizo casserole to warm you up...  and lots more going on in the High Street including the traditional carol-singing of course. You can’t complain that Budleigh isn’t doing its best to cater for all tastes at the Late Night Shopping event on 6 December, from 6.00 to 8.00 pm.

Budleigh in Business is hosting the marquee in Mackerel Square, pictured above. The location seems particularly apt, being the town’s market place in the 18th century.

Newly formed in 2012 and now boasting 70+ members, Budleigh in Business describes itself as a group of like minded people dedicated to developing the businesses and prosperity of Budleigh Salterton and the surrounding area by supporting the town and helping business thrive.  

 With ‘Buy Local’ as the theme, BiB is planning its second Food & Drink Festival which is returning in 2014 from 24 to 26 October following the success of this year’s gastro-extravaganza.

 There’s nothing insular about the group. Most of its members are based in the Budleigh area - the chorizo casserole for example comes courtesy of Rosehill Rooms and Cookery, based on Budleigh’s West Hill.  But the mulled cider is from the Ashcombe Estate near Dawlish, where Budleigh resident Bill Roper is helping to revive the centuries-old tradition of cider-making. While on the subject of food there’s a delicious-looking recipe on the Ashcombe Cider web page at http://www.ashcombecider.co.uk/moules.html

“We know that many of you will be either part of the late night opening or there with family and friends to enjoy the festive spirit on the High Street - it would be lovely for you to join us down in Mackerel Square!” says BiB Chairperson Angela Yarwood, seen left.  

An impressive display of mill power

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Martin Watts: no run-of the-mill speaker
Living as we do on the coast, it’s all too easy to think that Devon’s all about seaside holiday resorts, smugglers’ coves, sea shanties and swashbuckling nautical heroes of the past. So the subject of a talk on 26 November in Knowle Village Hall was well chosen by the Otter Valley Association, given the importance of mill power over the centuries in our corner of the West Country.  

And they couldn’t have chosen a better speaker than Martin Watts from Cullompton. One of only thirteen practising millwrights listed in the Mills section of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings, he wasable to draw on his many years’ experience as a miller and student of mills since the 1960s. With an impressive range of slides and a seemingly endless supply of facts about rivers, leats, millstones, gearing, overshot and undershot wheels he kept his 60-strong audience fascinated by his story of how the ancient industry of milling had developed since the Middle Ages, with a special emphasis on East Devon.

The entrance to Otterton Mill shop and gallery and the mill workings
There had been, we learnt, about 2,000 mill sites in Devon over the last thousand years. The Domesday Book commissioned by William the Conqueror in 1085 had listed 96 mills in the county, mostly in East Devon. Cornwall, in contrast, had only six. And milling had thrived until quite recently. Only 30 years there were still 600 corn mills; contributions from various members of the audience at the end of the talk proved that milling memories were still fresh in people’s minds - elderly though some of these may have been.

The OtterValley was an especially productive area, including mills at Ottery St Mary, Dotton, Colaton Raleigh and especially Otterton. In fact, if you missed the talk, and haven’t visited this most celebrated mill so close to Budleigh there are plenty of opportunities to see it in action. The photos don't really do it justice.

The mill building at Otterton sits astride the mill leat, and houses two independent mills sharing the same stream. There are two water-wheels, which would previously have driven two pairs of milling stones housed in each mill.
With a total of four pairs of stones, Otterton Mill was for much of its life the largest watermill in Devon. The millers grind their signature stoneground flour twice a month and on milling days are very happy to chat to visitors and explain how the mill works.

There’s much more than milling to enjoy at Otterton, fascinating though it is to watch those amazing wheels going round. With its idyllic setting, award-winning cafe-restaurant, celebrated bakery, art gallery, local food shop and live music events it’s one of East Devon’s major attractions. Click on http://www.ottertonmill.com to find out more.





Red Man or Green Man?

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I enjoyed visiting the current exhibition at Exeter’s Royal Albert Memorial Museum a few days ago. It’s called ‘West Country to World’s End - The South West in the Tudor Age’ and I’ll write more about it in due course.

A well produced book of the same title accompanies the exhibition, which I enjoyed so much that I bought a copy.

Budleigh people will admire the impressively life-size portrait by an unknown artist of the area’s great Elizabethan hero Sir Walter Raleigh and his eight-year-old son Walter. On loan from the National Portrait Gallery the work was painted in 1602 when he was enjoying Queen Elizabeth’s favour, and shows in great detail, as the printed commentary explains, the expensive clothes worn by father and son: Sir Walter is wearing a jacket embroidered with seed pearls while the boy’s blue suit is silver-braided.  This link on the excellent and useful Wikipedia will take you to see it at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:WalterRaleighandson.jpg

But why is there no mention of Sir Walter’s birthplace in East Budleigh, only a 30 minute drive from Exeter?  


 























The 2010 guide to All Saints, one of Devon's most celebrated churches

And while much of the exhibition gives rightful prominence to the magnificence and sophistication of arts and crafts enjoyed by rich and powerful patrons in 16th century South West England there is surprisingly not one image or mention of one of the glories of East Budleigh in All Saints Church where Sir Walter Raleigh and his family worshipped.

“It is not Raleigh that makes this church a ‘must-visit’, nor even the very beautiful gilded bosses, but the wonderful 16th-century carved bench ends,” writes Hilary Bradt in her 2010 book Slow Devon and Exmoor. “These are quite extraordinary, and deserve as much time as you can give them.”


This bench end depicting a ship is said by some to have inspired the young Sir Walter Raleigh in his overseas explorations. For a detailed study of this bench end see http://www.ovapedia.org.uk/index.php?page=The-Ship-Carving-of-All-Saints-Church-East-Budleigh-C16 

Nearer home, another admirer of the bench ends is Fairlynch Museum volunteer steward Hanneke Coates whose illustrations in the 2010 booklet All Saints Church and the Village of East Budleigh show some of the carvings in good detail. 

 




































Opinions vary as to the interpretation of this particular bench end.  It’s described by the photographer Rex Harris at http://www.flickr.com/photos/sheepdog_rex/5457885655/in/photostream/
as a ‘wodewose’ or ‘wildman of the woods’, a figure often known as a Green Man with ancient links to natural vegetative deities in cultures from earliest times in places around the world. That view seems to be shared by David Jenkinson, writing about the East Budleigh bench ends for the Otter Valley Association’s Ovapedia in 2010 where he describes the carvers as influenced by the threatening mythical creatures of the Dark Ages, including such examples as the wodewose and boggarts or malevolent spirits of the fields.  Click on http://www.ova.org.uk/index.php?page=The-Carved-Bench-ends-of-All-Saints-Church-East-Budleigh-C16to read more.

New Age thinkers like the Dutchman Han Marie Stiekema have embraced the concept of the Green Man, listing the East Budleigh bench end as one of its many examples at http://www.the-great-learning.com/pilgrim-network/uk/greenman-eastbudleigh-en.htm 

However Rex Harris or Sheepdog Rex as he calls himself, also acknowledges that the bench end is “often referred to as a Red Indian because of (the) Raleigh connection.”  That was the view taken by Budleigh Salterton’s Dr Brushfield in his 1892 study of the Church of All Saints. “A large bearded head in profile, facing left, situated in the concavity of an arabesque ornament, and terminating in a scroll-like decoration,” he wrote. “It bears some resemblance to, and has been called, the decorated head of an Indian.”

“It’s hard not to think ‘Red Indian!” writes in a similar vein the Devon-based founder of the Bradt Travel Guides, having described the figure on the bench end wearing what seems to be a feathered headdress. A sailor returning from the New World would have remembered the more flamboyant aspects and perhaps described them to local craftsmen,” suggests Hilary Bradt. “But the ‘feathers’ could also be foliage,” she admits in deference to the Green Man’s followers. 

It’s a view shared by Hanneke in her 2010 church guide. In fact she is passionate in what she describes as the belief held by locals - and she counts herself as such - that the bench end depicts a North American Indian.  “That of course is completely different from what the historians write,” she says. “But I’ve spent a long time studying and drawing the bench ends and I know them intimately.”

The difference in interpretation of the carvings by locals as opposed to historians is for Hanneke a fascinating aspect of the East Budleigh bench ends. “I’d love to write a booklet on that subject,” she told me.

It’s easy to embrace the notion that the whole of Tudor Devon was abuzz with stories told in towns and villages by sailors returning from voyages to the ‘World’s End’ led by Drake, Hawkins and Raleigh. Dr Michael Tisdall has devoted many years to studying the significance of the carvings of plants and leaves in medieval churches. His book God’s Flowers: an iconography for foliage decoration was published last year.

 




































Many visitors to East Budleigh will have learnt that this bench end depicts a tongue-sticker. It may have been a carver’s depiction of a tale-bearer punished for his sin by being given an enormous deformed tongue. Or simply a fairground-type freakshow. 

Dr Tisdall, quoted by Hilary Bradt, has a rather different view. “It is my idea that it is a banana. Bananas would have been known to Raleigh’s crew. They sailed via the Azores where bananas were in production and some were taken across to these new West Indies and planted there. So either a banana or a drawing or other memory of a banana would be very likely in East Budleigh.”

Well, I don’t know. But it’s fun to let the imagination range across the seas and the centuries.

And the RAMM exhibition can only help.  Do go, and don’t miss the exhibit described as a 17th century tile depicting a Native American, found in the little North Devon village of Monkleigh.

I mean of course, the tile. Now that would be a story wouldn’t it, to discover that the All Saints bench end craftman’s work had been carved from life?

To read more about RAMM click on http://www.rammuseum.org.uk/

Lightening up Fairlynch Museum in Budleigh Salterton

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Each year Lord Clinton, Patron of Fairlynch, donates a Christmas tree to the Museum.

 






















Shown left to right getting the tree ready for the Late Night Shopping event on 6 December are Rob Merkel, Roger Sherriff, Andrew Jamieson and Trevor Waddington.



 
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Lighting up time at Fairlynch

The Museum welcomed a steady flow of visitors to match the mulled wine on offer. Mince pies were served of course

World War I exhibition

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Fairlynch Museum's Local History Group is still seeking people from Budleigh Salterton and surrounding villages with information for the 2014 WWI tribute exhibition

Happy Christmas from Fairlynch Museum and Arts Centre

Day by Day through the Great War - thoughts from another town

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The madness of war: A Swiss shepherd watches a battle on the frontier during World War I from the 1915 edition of Some ‘Frightful’ War Pictures by the celebrated illustrator William Heath Robinson (1872-1944) 

Museums up and down the country - indeed throughout the world - will have been bringing their resources to bear on exhibitions marking the centenary of World War I. In Britain, Prime Minister David Cameron announced last October that more than £50m has been allocated for a historic commemoration of the centenary of the start of the conflict.

The hunt is still on at Fairlynch Museum for Great War stories with a link to Budleigh Salterton or any of the villages of the Lower Otter Valley.

Those stories based on experiences of active service are naturally of keen interest, particularly when they reveal private thoughts at variance with the official views promoted by the Government’s propaganda machine. Only a few months ago the publication of Warwickshire man and WW1 veteran Harry Drinkwater’s pencil-written secret wartime diaries made BBC news. His papers had been sent for auction by relatives following his death in 1978 and were spotted by collector David Griffiths who was struck by their gripping storytelling style. 

One of many entries from Lt Drinkwater’s diary reflects bitterly on the futility of the conflict:  
"This is not war it's slaughter. No man, however brave, can advance against a sheet of bullets from the front and a shower of shells from overhead - it appears to me that the side who will win will be the one who can supply the last man."http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-24745574

 






















Less dramatic perhaps but absorbing in their way are the diaries kept by non-combatants such as John Coleman Binder, a grocer, baker and corn-dealer from Oundle in Northamptonshire. Recently published by the town’s museum they cover in detail a wide range of aspects of World War I. 

Editor Alice Thomas was at first hesitant about bringing them to public notice but decided that publishing them was a worthwhile project. “Though I have sometimes thought that it might be better to let these terrible events, with the hatred, brutality and suffering on both sides, be forgotten, they were an inescapable part of life for everyone involved, and a part of our history,” she writes in the preface. “A first hand account such as this is a valuable and vivid record of how life was for this thoughtful Oundle man in his fifties, in the years between 1914 and 1918.”   

Oundle School Chapel was built as a memorial to those former pupils of Oundle School who died during World War I, including the Headmaster's son Roy Sanderson

Having spent over 30 years living and working in Mr Binder’s charming town before moving to Budleigh Salterton I was surprised and delighted to receive a copy sent by Oundle friends before Christmas. 


A scene from chapter LXIV of François Rabelais' Gargantua telling in burlesque fashion an episode from the story of the Pichrocholine war, illustrated by the 19th century French artist  Gustave Doré 

I’ve often thought about the stupidity and sadness of human conflict, whether finding pacifist elements in the work of 16th century authors like the humanist scholar  Erasmus of Rotterdam or the French comic writer Francois Rabelais...

 


This depiction of the battlefield of Waterloo by the artist John Heaviside Clarke (1771-1863) was dedicated to the Marquess of Anglesea, Wellington's cavalry commander

... or being struck by the absence of jingoism in this 1816 painting of the aftermath of Waterloo

 
The book Oundle’s War was my contribution to the celebrations marking the 50th anniversary of the end of World War II. It was a history of the 1939-45 conflict seen from the viewpoints of Oundle residents, former pupils of Oundle School, and USAAF servicemen stationed in the local area


... or writing about World War Two’s impact on the Oundle community between 1939 and 1945.

Flicking through Mr Binder’s diary at random I found something of note on every page. Here is this worthy shopkeeper describing on page 2 how his Oundle customers reacted to news of the impending declaration of war in August 1914.

“I am sorry to say that this morning signs of panic began to show themselves. On commencing business people commenced to come in with large orders to buy up food especially flour and sugar. I quickly discerned this and refused to supply any person with more than 14lb of Flour or 14lb Sugar and thus although we continued to be very busy all day we were able to cope with the rush.

I am sorry to say this course was not taken by other shops in the town, so that some people were able to secure an unfair quantity of Provisions.”

 






















Above: A 1915 World War I poster appealing for volunteers

Britain had begun the Great War in 1914 by relying on volunteers for its armed forces. By 1916 the Government was introducing conscription, but Mr Binder had reservations about its plans for calling up working men who were already contributing, as he saw it, to the national effort. 

“The burden laid upon this empire is already stupendous, and cannot be added to without the gravest reasons,” he writes on page 95. “We are helping clear the seas. We have an army of 3 millions of men fighting on two fronts. We are keeping our trade going (under conditions which are intolerable) in order to finance ourselves and our Allies, and have practically turned all our steel and iron works of every description into munition factories in order to supply their wants and our own. If we withdraw our men compulsorily from these labours it seems to me the result will be collapse. I am neither an Optimist nor a Pessimist but simply a plain citizen who tries to look at these events in the light of reason. We are told the Voluntary System has proved a failure, that we are ‘a nation of slackers’ etc., etc. This is mere rubbish. No nation that supplies and equips an army of 3 millions in a year ought to be condemned in this way.”

A year later, with men being sent to the front in their thousands, he is clearly revolted by the indiscriminate way in which the cannon-fodder was being chosen. “One of the most painful and shameful debates that I ever remember took place on Thursday in the House on the question of calling up for re-examination men who had been rejected as unfit. Many of these men - notoriously unfit - have been passed by Medical Boards as fit for General Service. The whole affair had become a crying public scandal.” (page 215). 

 Yet Mr Binder is no pacifist. “We cannot wage war in kid gloves with an enemy like Germany,” he concludes on page 214 having described a terrible air raid on London which took place on 13 June 1917, when 104 people - “a good part women and children” he notes - were killed, and 243 wounded. “One cannot understand their mentality at all, and Englishmen have long ceased to try to do so, and most of us now look upon them as real savages, but unfortunately they have been able to bring science to aid their savage and bloody ways.”

 


 























As I turn the pages of the Oundle shopkeeper’s diary I wonder how many volumes of diaries and letters still lie undisturbed in East Devon homes, and how many of them might perhaps have been composed a century ago during what Mr Binder describes so rightly as “this grim and bloody war.”  Well, we have four years ahead of us to contemplate its horrors. And perhaps during that time  Fairlynch Museum’s 2014 tribute to the victims of the Great War may help to yield more testimonies which deserve to be better known. 

So please don’t throw away those old family papers and notebooks before checking to see if there’s something as valuable as Mr Binder’s diary.


The 2013 Christmas Day swim at Budleigh Salterton

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Every Christmas Day spectators and swimmers gather on Budleigh beach just before 10.00 am. Or should that be sadists and masochists...?




Even the odd dog is welcome to join. 

























The weather had been stormy in the run-up to Christmas Day and I'd heard rumours that the event might have to be cancelled. 

But who would decide? The coastguards in the photo were looking as if they thought everyone was mad. 

They told me that the event is spontaneous with no organiser. People just turn up.






















Here are some people putting on brave faces as 10.00 am approaches.



 


 And they're off!


















Clearly some people are having second thoughts. Those waves look quite big.





Yes indeed. This could have been a big mistake.





 
The return! For most people that was after a few minutes.






 Some people just enjoy showing off. 















  



The crowds break into applause...





















... for the RNLI boats who are always out there on Christmas Day.  Off they go to the Exmouth Christmas Day swim. 


























Funded by charitable donations, the lifeboat crews and lifeguards of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution have saved at least 140000 lives at sea since 1824.  Click on
rnli.org  to read more.

Otter landscape was a bargain

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The River Otter is always a popular subject for artists and the view of Otter Head is a favourite. 

Mark Gibbons is a professional painter who specialises in West Country moorland and coastal landscapes. His 1980 watercolour of the River Otter at Budleigh Salterton was one of the recent lots at Piers Motley Auctions in Exmouth.

Just over two years ago the artist and his wife Angela featured as contestants in the ITV programme ‘May the Best House Win.’  The subsequent media coverage led to increased interest in his paintings, which were reported as selling for around £500 each.

And the above painting...?  A snip at £50 at the Bicton Street sale on 9 December. Auctioneer Piers Motley said that the winning bid was what he would have expected.

For details of further sales click here

Fairlynch Friend Steve Hagger leads the way

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 Above: Bystock Fishponds   Image credit: Derek Harper 

The first of the 2014 Otter Valley Association walks takes place on Saturday 11 January at 10.00 am. 

Led by Friend of Fairlynch Steve Hagger and lasting 2.5 hours it’s described as a circular undulating walk of 5.5-miles over the commons to Bystock Fishponds with varied topography including woodland and heathland. 

The walk starts at Knowle Village Hall car park, SY052827, ending back at Knowle with an optional lunch at the Britannia Inn (otherwise known as the Dog and Donkey).  

For more details contact Steve Hagger on 01395 442631.

Gloriana’s West Country on show

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The Boyhood of Raleigh is one of the Pre-Raphaelite artist Sir John Millais’ most celebrated works,  painted during his stay in Budleigh Salterton in 1870 

 With the quatercentenary of Sir Walter Raleigh’s death only four years away you could guess that at least one Fairlynch volunteer might be recalling the famous years of 2000 and even 1969. Those two high points in the Museum’s history were reached when Sir John Millais’ celebrated depiction of East Budleigh’s best known personality went on show. To greet the arrival of ‘The Boyhood of Raleigh’ at Fairlynch in July 1969 three members of the US Marine Detachment from its 6th Fleet HQ in London’s Grosvenor Square joined forces with three Royal Marines from Lympstone to stand guard over the painting, a military band played and Tudormania broke out. Visitor numbers at the Museum shot up. For the management of such a small institution as Fairlynch it was an amazing achievement.




 






















‘West Country to World’s End - The South West in the Tudor Age’ is the current exhibition at Exeter’s Royal Albert Memorial Museum & Art Gallery, better known to locals as RAMM. Exhibitions about this period usually focus on London, as pointed out by Prof Sam Smiles in the introduction to the book of the same title accompanying the exhibition. So it’s only right that the West Country should be spotlighted for the rich contribution that it made to the arts and crafts of the English Renaissance.


 


















In Exeter itself Tudor landmarks like the Guildhall, seen above, survived the destruction wrought by German air raids and city planners. They testify to the wealth of the city’s merchants, many of whom were involved in the cloth trade.  

As far as the role of the city planners is concerned, another worthwhile online resource to look at is the ‘Demolition Exeter’ site by fellow-blogger Wolfpaw, showing how much of the city’s heritage has been lost for ever. The pages dealing with the demolition of 38 North Street with its magnificent plaster ceiling are especially telling.  Click on 
http://demolition-exeter.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/no-38-north-street.html  to see what I mean. Fragments of the ceiling are on display in the RAMM exhibition.

 






















Equally associated with the cloth trade and happily another visitor attraction which has survived in today’s Exeter was St Nicholas Priory, pictured above, the home of the wealthy Hurst family between around 1575 and 1602.   


 






















The two jewellery shops in Goldsmith Street, just off the city’s High Street, serve as reminders of one of Exeter’s traditional crafts

The RAMM exhibition has some beautiful examples of elaborately worked gold and silver ware: Exeter alone boasted 23 goldsmiths in the 16th century.  I didn’t know about the importance of spoons for Tudor people.  

 






















The 'Exeter Salt' c. 1580
Image credit: http://artsconnected.org/resource/printImage/5058

Having set up the 2013 Fairlynch Museum exhibition ‘Sea Salt and Sponges’ which included a section on salt-making in the Budleigh Salterton area, I was interested in this image of the so-called ‘Exeter Salt’ made by city goldsmith Christopher Eston in around 1580, now in the Minneapolis Institute of Arts

Not to be confused with the equally stunning ‘Exeter Salt’ made by the 17th century Johann Hass in around 1630, presented to Charles II by the city of Exeter and now in the Royal Collection. Click on http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/31772/the-exeter-salt  to see it. 



 















Benvenuto Cellini's extravagant salt cellar
Image credit: Jerzy Strzelecki

Had I known about them I would have used these examples rather than the 'saliera' shown above made by Cellini for the French king Francis I. But that’s pretty spectacular as well. And of course the Italian sculptor’s masterpiece was also a fine example of sophisticated workmanship of the Tudor period.


  






















The oak door of No 10 Cathedral Close, Exeter. Image credit Derek Harper

Sadly for Budleigh people as I pointed out at http://budleighbrewsterunited.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/red-man-or-green-man.html   there is no mention of the All Saints Church carved oak bench ends in the exhibition. On display instead are the rather more sophisticated and later oak doors from Exeter High School attributed to craftsman Nicholas Baggett, similar in style to the door of No 10 Cathedral Close. Baggett’s work can also be seen at the city’s Guildhall.

However many of our Fairlynch volunteers will admire the mid-17th century bone lace collar and two cuffs from the Victoria & Albert Museum which are on display in the RAMM exhibition.


























Nicholas Hilliard in 1577, a self-portrait
Image credit: http://hu.wikipedia.org

Our knowledge of these West Country craftsmen is sometimes patchy. “The limitations of the source material mean that the West Country’s master craftsmen will always remain rather shadowy figures,” writes Susan Flavin in the book which accompanies the exhibition. By contrast there is a well presented section and a separate chapter on the miniature-painter Nicholas Hilliard (1547-1618), written by Karen Hearn. The son of an Exeter goldsmith he is famous for his portrait miniatures of many important figures of the age: both Elizabeth I and James I sat for him. But he was also briefly imprisoned for debt. 

The RAMM exhibition includes a number of these miniatures, with magnifying glasses thoughtfully provided by the curators.  Other larger and often striking paintings are on display, ranging from Joan Tuckfield, the widow of an Exeter cloth merchant, to Queen Elizabeth herself. More portraits of Tudor personalities include those of John Russell, Earl of Bedford and Lord Lieutenant of Devon (1485-1555) by Hans Holbein the Younger, Sir George Carew (c.1504-1545), the naval commander who drowned when his flagship the Mary Rose sank during the Battle of the Solent; Sir Richard Grenville (1542-1591) and Sir Francis Drake (c. 1540-1596); and the antiquaries John Hooker (c.1527-1601) and Richard Carew (1555-1620).  

Budleigh people will admire the life size portrait of Raleigh and his son in the exhibition. But I wondered why, unlike the portrait of Sir Francis Drake also on display, it’s not accompanied by a heading and more detailed biographical text. The little detail of Wat’s death in 1618 during Raleigh’s last and fateful expedition to the Indies could have been mentioned,  along with the story of the suicide of Raleigh’s commander Lawrence Kemys. Seemingly overcome by remorse and feeling responsible for the young man’s death he first shot himself before plunging a knife into his heart: events which were sad precursors of Raleigh’s own death on the scaffold nine months later.  And perhaps this corner of the exhibition should have been where a copy of Sir Walter’s History of the World should have been displayed. Published in 1614 it’s on loan from Exeter Cathedral Library.

Drake deserves the attention he receives in the RAMM exhibition, not just for his circumnavigation of the globe but for his role in the defeat of the Spanish Armada to which a section of the Exeter exhibition is devoted.  On loan from the Worshipful Company of Apothecaries is a stylised depiction of key elements of the Armada story: the alarm beacons, Queen Elizabeth at Tilbury, and the sea battle at Gravelines. It is viewable at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spanish_Armada


This 19th century illustration by the American Henry Howe shows John White and his family at the baptism of his grand-daughter Virginia Dare, named thus “because this childe was the first Christian borne in Virginia.”  It comes from the book by William A. Crafts  Pioneers in the settlement of America: from Florida in 1510 to California in 1849, Boston 1876. 


Also featured at RAMM are the efforts to colonise the New World by largely Devon-born explorers: Sir Humphrey Gilbert, Raleigh and Grenville.  Rather different from Hilliard as an artist was John White, (c.1540-c.1593), celebrated for more than 70  watercolour depictions of American Indians along with the flora and fauna that he encountered during his stay in the New World in the 1580s. Probably born in Cornwall - his coat of arms has associations with Truro -  he was sent to America by Raleigh as Governor of the settlement on Roanoke Island, North Carolina, known as the ‘Lost Colony.

RAMM is a fine museum for the vibrant and historic city of Exeter and ‘West Country to World’s End’ will inspire me to learn more about the age of the Tudors in this part of England.
I’ve still not taken a Red Coat tour after six years of living within easy reach of the city. Click on  http://www.exeter.gov.uk/index.aspx?articleid=668 to find out more.

Maybe a Red Coat guide can tell me about Mr John Palmer, mentioned in this inscription at the almshouse which he endowed on Magdalen Street. Maybe he too should have been featured in the exhibition at RAMM.

A visit to the vast expanses of the Exeter museum inevitably brings home the contrast with quirky little Fairlynch so I could not understand why some of the exhibit notices were placed at a child’s level. And it’s such a fine exhibition that you might expect to see more publicity given to it at the Museum’s entrance, with instructions on how to find it. But these are quibbles.

 






















A sketch for the arms and crest granted to John Hawkins, 'Canton geven by Rob[er]t Cooke Clar[enceux] King of Arms 1568'. The bound African slave on the crest reflects the trade that Hawkins pioneered.
Image credit: www.nationalarchives.gov.uk by permission of The College of Heralds, London (1568)

Not such a quibble - and an omission which has caused disquiet among some visitors and correspondence in the local press - is the absence of any mention that one of Gloriana’s Devon heroes was the nation’s first slave trader.  The role of Admiral Sir John Hawkins (1532–1595)as the Englishman who founded the triangular slave trade means that Plymouth will always be inextricably linked with this most inhumane of practices,  admits its City Council.  Click on http://www.plymouth.gov.uk/homepage/leisureandtourism/libraries/history/historyroom/slaveryandabolition/johnhawkins.htm  to read more.   Inhumane? Yes, but no more so than the wars and cruelties of the past, including religious persecution and public executions, that sit so uneasily with the Renaissance tradition of courtliness, scholarship and artistic splendour.

Hawkins’ notoriety as a slaver is mentioned in the book to accompany the exhibition, but perhaps a reminder could have been found for the exhibition itself.    Slave chains like these are among RAMM’s many artefacts.

Admittedly from a much later period they could have served as a guilt-assuaging  reminder that Devon people like the Exeter-born missionary Henry Townsend (1815-1886) were among those went out to Africa with the intention of helping its people rather than enslaving them.  Click on http://www.rammuseum.org.uk/collections/collectors/henry-townsend-1820-1885 and on http://www.dacb.org/stories/nigeria/townsend_henry.html to read a much fuller biography.

‘West Country to World’s End - The South West in the Tudor Age’ continues until 2 March 2014 For more details click on http://www.rammuseum.org.uk/













Wartime memories sought

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A Christmas party for evacuee children during World War II. In the first four days of September 1939, approximately 3,000,000 people - mostly children - were moved from the cities to places of safety in small towns and villages in what was known officially as Operation Pied Piper

No, not World War I for once, though maybe all this talk of the Great War centenary has stirred up childhood memories of the disturbance to family life that conflict can cause, wherever and whenever it occurs.

Beverly, from Paphos in Cyprus, has emailed me on behalf of her father who will be 80 in February 2014. With his home threatened by enemy bombing raids during World War II six-year-old Royston Harry Williams was evacuated in 1940 together with his brother to Budleigh Salterton and remained there for four years.

Many former evacuees still have bad memories of that time. Enforced family separations took place in an atmosphere of fear and uncertainty with most children unaware of their destination and not knowing if they would ever return home.  But Royston was fortunate.  “He has golden memories of the place,” writes Beverly. “His dream is to revisit the town to see the houses where he stayed.”

Royston stayed in two houses in Budleigh. One was close to the railway station, he remembers, but he doesn't remember names too well. It was close to a church and a bank and a chemist’s shop. He thinks that he was accommodated by a Mrs E.M. Daniel for most of the time, while his brother stayed at a house in Knowle Road.

If you can identify the house or the family who looked after Royston or his brother please email mr.downes@gmail.com and I will pass on the information to his wife and daughters. A birthday celebration in Budleigh is what the family are hoping for.  “We want to make his dream come true,” says Beverly.

People and the evolving landscape in the Lower Otter Valley

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With our landscape currently being battered by unusually stormy weather the forthcoming talk should be of special interest.

Dr Sam Bridgewater, Conservation Manager of the Pebblebed Heaths, and David Daniel of the Otter Valley Association will talk about the way human settlement and economic activity interact with the underlying geology and ecology of the Lower Otter Valley, to produce the landscape we see today.

Their talks will be based on presentations they were asked to give to a group of landscape and engineering third year students from Bath University as background to a project being conducted in collaboration with Bicton College.

David Daniel is well known as a speaker on the history and geography of the Lower Otter Valley.

Dr Bridgewater has been Nature Conservation Manager for the East Devon Pebblebed Heaths (EDPH) and the River Otter Estuary since November 2012. He is responsible for the management of the 2,800 acres of heaths - which lie between Exeter and the Jurassic Coast - and are registered as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), a European Special Protection Area (SPA) and a Special Area of Conservation (SAC).

Jointly presented by the Otter Valley Association and Fairlynch Museum, the event will take place on Saturday 15 February 2014 from 10.00 am to 12.30 pm in the Peter Hall, Budleigh Salterton, next to St Peter's Parish Church.

 Coffee will be available during the interval.



Lace comes home to Budleigh

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Georgina Beare holds the wedding bouquet made by her aunt, Budleigh Salterton lacemaker Winifred Vincent 

We’ve all heard of Honiton lace. But of course it wasn’t all made in Honiton. The term was used to describe a craft which became famous due to the ornate sprigs and complex patterns which were created separately and then sewn into the part of the lace piece known as net or grounds.

In past centuries many women in East Devon villages like Otterton and East Budleigh found that lacemaking provided an important source of income.

By 1841 at least 240 of them in Otterton were engaged in the delicate work.  A Mr and Mrs Lawrence opened a lace shop in Otterton in 1823, and another later in Sidmouth. By the end of the 19th century there were 230 lacemakers in East Budleigh alone.

For many people both in Britain and in America lacemaking continues to be a fascinating hobby. A locally made piece has now found its way back across the Atlantic.

“Last year we received a donation of mainly Honiton Lace made by a resident of Budleigh Salterton at about the time that Fairlynch opened in the late 1960s,” explained Fairlynch Museum lace expert Margaret Williams.  
  
 


















Lacemaker Winifred Vincent at work in Fairlynch Museum  

The lacemaker, a Miss Winifred Vincent, of Armitage Road gave the lace to her niece Georgina Beare who lived in the USA.  

Many years passed. Georgina always remembered where the lace had been made and knew of Fairlynch Museum’s fine collection   

“As she no longer had room to display it at home she kindly offered to bring her aunt’s lace to Budleigh when she visited the UK as she thought it rightfully belonged here, in the Museum,” said Margaret Williams.  

“Among the items is a beautiful piece that Mrs Beare used in her wedding bouquet when she married in the late 60s”.

The lace will be on show in the Lace Room at Fairlynch this year, from Sunday 6 April at 2.00 pm when the Museum re-opens.

Hoping for yet another museum with a maritime link

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Fairlynch Museum and Arts Centre: its Local History Group meets in the picturesque 19th century building 

Not surprisingly Devon has many local history societies - I’ve counted about 60 mentioned online - and that figure doesn’t include useful aids to research like Fairlynch Museum’s Local History Group or the Otter Valley Association's wonderful Ovapedia which you can consult at http://www.ovapedia.org.uk/index.php?page=archive


 


















Fairlynch’s Local History Group has the privilege of meeting in one of East Devon’s historic buildings, first owned by 19th century shipowner Matthew Lee Yeates whose supposed silhouette can be seen above.  

This Exmouth and Devon General Bank document dated 1 July 1809 bears Matthew Lee Yeates' signature

That seems appropriate, given Budleigh Salterton’s coastal location. In fact Mr Yeates was really a businessman who took one risk too many.  With commercial partner William Good he launched the Exmouth and Devon General Bank on 12 October 1809, moving to Budleigh Salterton and the splendid home which he had built and which we now know as Fairlynch Museum and Arts Centre. Sadly, his enterprise failed in 1815 and Yeates ended up as a Unitarian minister. You can read about him at  



Over in our sister-town of Brewster on Cape Cod I hear that the local historical society has the opportunity of making its base in an equally historic building which belonged to just as interesting a character as Mr Yeates.  

Brewster is renowned for the splendid houses built by its 18th and 19th century sea captains, formidable characters whose ocean-going careers led them into extraordinary adventures.


Take Captain Elijah Cobb for example, pictured above. Born in Harwich, Massachusetts, on 4 July 1768 he first commanded the ship Brewster, and is arguably the Cape Cod town’s most famous sea captain. His first voyage as ship’s master to Europe coincided unfortunately with the French Revolution of 1789. The vessel was seized by a French privateer and its cargo of  rice and flour was looted to feed the starving populace. Cobb successfully bargained with Robespierre for release of his impounded ship and cargo and then stayed in France long enough to witness the politician’s execution, one of 1,000 guillotinings that he watched.
 Further tricky situations arose during his voyages around the world, involving bribery and on one occasion rum-smuggling between Ireland and the Scilly Isles. And of course there were the difficulties caused by the Napoleonic War and the 1812 conflict between the US and Britain.

The Preedy window in All Saints' Church, East Budleigh, commemorates the heroism of Admiral Preedy
Here in East Devon he is matched only by our own Admiral George William Preedy (1817-94), who settled at Knowle on the outskirts of Budleigh after a naval career in which he captained HMS Agamemnon, one of the two ships involved in laying the first successful transatlantic telegraph cable. Read about him at http://budleighbrewsterunited.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/another-link-across-pond.html  
Sadly, unlike Brewster’s historians, we have not managed to locate a portrait of the Admiral, the centenary of whose birth I’ll be celebrating in a few years’ time, on 9 March 2017. 

After his eventful life at sea Captain Cobb retired to Brewster in 1820. He took on various administrative posts in the town, serving as a JP, as state Representative and Senator. He was even awarded a military rank as a Brigadier General.
 
His house on Lower Road, Brewster, was built around 1799 in the classicising Federal-style architecture popular in North America between 1780 and 1830 and often referred to locally as a 'square-rigger' or 'captain's house.'

 









Its features include a ‘widow’s walk’, where the captain’s wife might watch for her husband’s return from sea.  Just like the thatched belvedere that you see here on Budleigh Salterton’s Fairlynch, built just a little later but in a rather different style! 
And it’s the Elijah Cobb House which is now on the market in Brewster and which my friends in Cape Cod believe would make the perfect museum. Coordinator of The Brewster Historical Society’s New Home Acquisition Committee is author Sally Gunning. “Brewster, the Sea Captain's Town, doesn't currently offer a single sea captain's home that is accessible to the public,” she writes. “The Brewster Historical Society would like to change that, while at the same time assuring the preservation of this historic property and securing a permanent home - at long last - for our museum and our collections.”
I wish them every success in their project. You can read all about it at http://www.brewsterhistoricalsociety.org/

Maddened by the floods? Get mad about moss.

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Flooded fields between Annacloy and Ballynahinch, County Down, Northern Ireland

Photo credit Ardfern

Having spent many years of my childhood on the now disastrously flooded Somerset Levels, and still full of memories of my research last year into 19th century Budleigh Salterton spongiologist Henry Carter FRS, I read with interest Simon Barnes’ article in yesterday’s Times newspaper.

‘Dredging up old ideas won’t save the Levels’ was its title. No, believes the author. What is needed is in his words “a bloody great sponge” placed upstream to soak up water and then release it slowly. “Such sponges are known as upland bogs, moors, woodlands, wetlands and species-rich grasslands.”

 





















The picture says it all: an overwhelmed flood sign
Photo credit Bob Embleton


And maybe he should have added mosslands. For in our hillside cottage here in Budleigh Salterton we’re only too aware of the spongy flood barrier that we call our lawn. It has clearly absorbed much of the rainfall that’s made so many homes uninhabitable recently in other parts of the country.

 

That’s only to be expected, thinks my American friend Mossin’ Annie, pictured above at work on her mossery.  Based in Pisgah Forest in North Carolina - the other Raleigh country associated with our own Sir Walter - she runs Mountain Moss Enterprises and has been featured before in these pages.

 

 The path from Huccaby and Hexworthy on Dartmoor runs between old walls of moss-covered grantite boulders  Photo credit Martin Bodman
See more beautiful images of Dartmoor moss by local photographer Adrian Oakes at


Mosses can indeed absorb water like a sponge.  Some only a little at a time. “Others, like Sphagnums, can absorb up from 20-30 times their weight,” writes Annie on her website at http://mountainmoss.com/learn-more/botanical-implications/

“The absorptive properties of mosses allow extensive colonies to provide water filtration slowing down the rush of stormwater and giving it a chance to reach the soil. Mosses can reduce the impact of flash-flooding or heavy rainstorms as erosion control plants.”










Peat stacks near Westhay on the Somerset Levels: a photo taken in 1905 by Alexander Hasse 
   
Sphagnum moss is one of the most common components of peat, valued by gardeners for protecting plants against drought.  And the Somerset Levels are just one example of peatlands in countries around the world where thousands of tons of peat have been extracted, removing a most important water-absorbent material.  The current floods seem to be an elementary case of cause and effect. I’m not an expert, but it seems obvious that an environmentally damaging process needs to be reversed. That’s what the Wildlife Trusts believe anyway. Click on http://www.wildlifetrusts.org/peatlandsto see what they’re doing about it. 

For UK readers interested in learning more about moss, Annie tells me about an event at the South London Botanical Institute which runs from mid-February to mid-March.  Click on http://www.slbi.org.uk/documents/MadAboutMosses.pdf  for further information.

 




































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